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So it's fitting that Posen is terming his pre-Fall '08 collection "Ballet Poodle" - the phrase could not evoke a more quintessentially French image, those things that are both classic and refined (the ballet) and well-groomed, and even sometimes a bit silly (the poodle). And in both, as with the collection, it's all about the leg.

Elements of lingerie - a big trend for next Fall - clinched the French bombshell theme, with delicate Chantilly lace, corseted waistlines, pale pinks and fitted, va-va-voom silhouettes.

"I'm playing with old cliches," said Posen, as a model with slightly tousled hair walked out in a pink silk dress with sheer Chantilly lace panels and gathered waist topped off with a bow. "She could be a first wife, or she could be Courtney Love!" he said. The looks can be either demure or deviant, depending on how one wears it.