Gai xinh - Beauty girl 20

As Valentino took one of his last bows, a series of new designers celebrated their debut on the Paris catwalks, including Indian designers Manish Arora and Anamika.

Japan's Limi Feu also showed in Paris for the first time, presenting sharply-tailored jackets as her father, established designer Yohji Yamamoto, watched on, saying he was very nervous.

Belgium's Olivier Theyskens, 30, presented his second collection for fashion label Chloe on Sunday and let autumn leaves from the Tuileries gardens waft over his catwalk for a nature-inspired collection of silky dresses.

Theyskens, who came from fashion house Rochas after the label stopped its fashion business last year, paraded out models wearing light, pastel-colored dresses and woolen cardigans.

Taking over at an established label is a tricky task for designers who need to prove their own style while respecting the history of a house.

Sweden's Paulo Melim Andersson faced a similar challenge as Theyskens, rolling out his second collection for Chloe, which featured dungaree-style dresses worn over transparent tops.

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Gai xinh - Beauty girl 19

At Vuitton, models wearing transparent black layers over beaming yellow skirts walked out into a tent set up in a courtyard of the Louvre museum, as rapper Kanye West and singer Courtney Love applauded from the front row.

"It's one of the designers that I grew up on ... coming from the hip hop world. It's a famous brand in hip hop," West told Reuters at the show, where models with nurses' caps presented vivid outfits inspired by artist Richard Prince.

The Vuitton show came at the end of a fashion marathon which has taken editors and buyers from New York to London, Milan and Paris in the past few weeks, and featured Valentino's last ready-to-wear show before retiring after 45 years in fashion

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Gai xinh - Beauty girl 18

His other obsession was the star, which burst over silvery satin dresses, necklaces and belts.

One could quibble and note that the collection was a tad autumnal, with oodles of jackets and warm, loose pants. However, the tulip hemmed, occasionally truncated, every so often bat-winged jackets were all so well cut and tailored, it would be a minor complaint.

In a word it was the classiest act of the Paris season, and a sardonic counterpoint to the fantasies currently gripping European runways.

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Gai xinh - Beauty girl 17

Stefano's other big plus is his ability to meld art and artifice, fashion and formalism. His staging, for example, was impeccable; as Belgium producer Etienne Russo turned the Grand Palais into a wonderful art installation, where the huge interior space was illuminated by eight 12-foot diameter helium balloons, with the audience perched on cleverly padded all gray bleachers. That said, we were so far from the clothes binoculars would have been useful.

His other obsession was the star, which burst over silvery satin dresses, necklaces and belts.

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Gai xinh - Beauty girl 16

The key colors were midnight blue and black, best exemplified by an absolute stunner of a black dress worn by Lily Donaldson, the best single lesson in draping anywhere this season. Pilati's time at YSL has also been marked by his growing sophistication as a technician – the manner in which he managed to pucker several dresses in an imitation again of the logo was uncanny.

Pilati's own term for his style, "post minimalism," at that moment seemed more than apt.

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